Re-brushing your raw brass trumpet

Terry on YouTube asked me to film a video demonstrating the process of re-brushing a raw brass trumpet. Here's my response...
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The re-brush process is fairly similar to this video starting at 55:30

Cut 3M Scotchbrite gray pads (not maroon) into 1.5" x 3" and 1" x 6" pieces and one 3" x 6" piece. Disassemble your entire trumpet including the finger buttons, top/bottom caps, slides, and saturn water keys. Cut up heavy duty blue shop paper towels into pieces small enough to fold and place into every single open hole on the trumpet to protect the inside from grit and debris. Start with the main body of the trumpet by setting it on a scrap piece of carpet or padded mat. Kitchen sink floor mats work well. Get your gray pads wet by soaking them in a small bucket or bowl filled with distilled water, just leave them in the water for most of this process. Using tap water will likely result in hard water spots that will require secondary removal. Trust me, use distilled water.

All of your brush strokes will leave small scratches that reflect light and determine the overall aesthetic. You may opt to brush everything parallel to the leadpipe, which is our standard brushed finish. Or you may brush radially around every tube and the bell, which results in a very different aesthetic. And finally, you can combine these two options or create random patterns as you like.

Use the longer strips to work through the valve casing spaces, running them through from every direction to completely brush all exposed areas within reach. Repeat on all tight spaces. Using the the smaller rectangular pieces over the rest of the trumpet body and tight areas of the bell. Finally, use the large pad to brush the outside of the bell, to blend the valve casings in the direction you have chosen, and then inside the bell. Every brush stroke is down wet to prevent dangerous dust particles from getting into your lungs, in your home or work space, and inside your trumpet. Once finished, rinse immediately before the trumpet begins to dry with water spots. This is why I recommend using distilled water. Dry everything inside and out immediately. Failing to rinse the inside may result in unexpected water spots that will surprise you later. Repeat all steps on the slides. Next, lay the largest pad flat on your table or workbench and rotate each top/bottom cap and finger button onto the abrasive pad. Rinse and dry thoroughly.

Before you re-assemble your trumpet, consider coating it with a protective barrier. There are many products on the market that work very well with brass, steel, nickel, and other materials present on trumpets. Many of our clients have had great success with clear coatings designed to waterproof sporting goods equipment. Some opt to use industrial type sealants for machinery. I've seen and heard of many different products that are very effective in preventing tarnish and preserving the finish. The funny thing about trumpet players is that many of us are afraid to get our hands dirty. And many more fear they may damage their nice instruments. Both of these fears are usually unfounded as I have never had anyone come to me with a trumpet that needed repair from waterproofing or preserving the finish. That hasn't happened once in 30+ years. I encourage you to take a deep breath, find your strength from within and go try it for yourself. The worst that can happen is that you may need to strip down the finish again, which is the exact same process I just shared with you. The best case scenario is that your newly brushed finish will be preserved for years to come. And truthfully, could your trumpet look any worse with a sealed surface when compared to how it looked before you started this process? Unlikely!

Why don't I lacquer or clear coat my trumpets before you take delivery? Well, the answer isn't what you are expecting. I can do all of this work in my shop with relative ease. Yes, there are some extra steps and time, which is added expense I could add onto the final price. But the problem is that all clear coating will eventually wear, which usually starts at contact points. And this leads to complaints and eventually the pointing of fingers. I've been blamed for failed finishes too many times to offer lacquer or any type of clear coat finish. Customers in the past insisted on getting partial refunds or having their instruments re-finished after they start showing wear. This demand is usually accompanied by comments about the higher price of my instruments. There is an assumption that you pay more, so the finish should be guaranteed for life. Well, that's never going to happen. The only finishes that could last a lifetime will result in two major problems. The first is thickening of the resonating materials, mostly the bell, which results in a deadening of the tone quality. That is definitely not acceptable. And second, repairs of damaged parts will require removing the finish entirely. This is a major expense (usually over $1000) added to the cost of the original repair.

If you own or have seen a trumpet that is clear coated or lacquered with absolutely no wear, it was either not played regularly or it was refinished at some point. When you look back at early print advertising from Conn and Selmer, you will see they clearly stated that lacquered finishes are a "temporary solution". So why not roll up your sleeves and try something new by re-brushing AND applying a protective coating to your trumpet? I bet it will look amazing!
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Jason